Restaurant On Old Navy Base Serves Up 'New American Coastal' Cuisine, Alongside Ambiance & a View

Jeff Walker,  Entertainment Writer

Although North Charleston remains one of the fastest growing cities in South Carolina, and boasts a population well over 100K, aside from the quarter mile stretch on East Montague in the Park Circle area, there is no real downtown. North Charleston proper is a community full of housing developments, industrial parks, and shopping centers, and with that come an assortment of fast food and chain restaurants.

Sadly, when it comes to upscale dining North Charleston is often overshadowed by it's older and more established big sister Charleston, which has a decent array of high-end restaurants carrying a wide variety of menu choices. Thankfully, for those who live in the north area including Ladson, Goose Creek, Hanahan, and Summerville, there is a shining star in the North Charleston food & beverage industry. 

If you want to enjoy awesome food and drink, exceptional service and splendid ambiance than there is only one destination, and the clear choice is MOMO Riverfront Park. As the name suggests, the restaurant is located on the Old Navy Base in North Charleston adjacent to Riverfront Park. Nestled under magnificent trees, MOMO offers a scenic and tranquil view of the Cooper River while providing patrons easily the most eclectic menu outside of King Street.

While their location at 1049 Everglades Avenue was once home to Naval quarters, and several businesses over the past three decades, MOMO owners Justin and Iryna Moore seized an opportunity in 2020 to move their four year old food truck business into a proper brick and mortar location, taking advantage of the ever evolving North Charleston historic district.

And although they've tweaked the menu a couple of times, Justin who is also the executive chef recently settled on 'new American coastal' featuring a nice blend of seafood, handhelds, and lowcountry classics, or as picky eaters might say, 'a little of everything appealing to a wide variety of palates'. MOMO is best described as chic & unique, with hint of southern comfort foods. 

From Ceviche (fresh catch marinated in a citrus blend) to Oyster Sliders, and from Steak Frite' basking in zesty chimichurri sauce to the colorful and crunchy lettuce laced Bluberry-Basil Salad blanketed under charred apricot, candied walnut, and feta before an infusion of blueberry vinaigrette, MOMO offers up menu items that will tantalize your taste buds.

There are several lowcountry restaurants serving up tasty shrimp & grits, however a good number of them read from the same recipe card. Not so at MOMO. Justin isn't looking for run of the mill, rather he's thinking outside the box. For a mere $26 MOMO serve up an ample portion of plump shrimp in a medley of pulled pork, crème fraiche (buttery heavy cream), and smoked tomato gravy over seasoned bed of Adluh gouda grits. Beyond awesome! 

MOMO's Cacio E Pepe is their lone pasta dish. It begins with bucatini, basically thicker and tubular spaghetti type noodles piled high under an arrangement of shaved pecorino (hard & crumbly sharp aged romano). Ideally priced at $23, or for $6 more add some grilled chicken.

Whether it's an entree or a starter aka 'First', Justin and his kitchen staff take the ordinary up a notch. Sometimes they take it up a couple of notches. MOMO's Roasted Carrot Hummus will make you re-think carrots, as well as re-think hummus. We're talking a smoky yet creamy combination of pureed carrots swirled in a mix of tahini (ground sesame) and olive oil delivered to your table with an arrangement of sliced celery, cucumber, and crackers. Quite imaginative! 

I highly recommend the Devil Eggs topped with white cheddar pimento, bacon, and smoked paprika. Clearly not your grandmother's recipe, as is the jalapeno and honey infused Hush Puppies with a corn butter spread. Both freakin' amazing.

However, my personal favorite from the appetizer list is MOMO's Brussel Sprouts. If you haven't caught on to this current trend of the mini cabbages, than you're overlooking a delightful petite leafy vegetable revolution. Slightly roasted in a melange of bacon soy vinaigrette, sesame, and wildflower honey, MOMO's Brussel Sprouts burst with a dual tangy and candied taste sensation. An appetizer that eats like a meal, and easily one of the best Brussel sprout dishes in all of greater Charleston.

If you're only slightly adventurous, than I suggest any of the five handhelds. All are familiar comfort foods with a twist. MOMO's signature burger is a slight variation of a classic diner smashburger smothered in American cheese and their secret sauce (very hush-hush) on a Martin's bun (famous for their potato rolls). $13 for a single patty or double it up for just $3 more.

Their Blue Cheese Burger is more of a free spirited smashburger journey. A delicious all beef patty beneath natural gluten-free buttery point reyes blue cheese, topped with a combination of grilled onion and tomato with arugula for an added peppery kick. All wrapped in a creamy and zesty spread of smoked garlic-truffle. Ooh la-la!

MOMO's classic Tuna Melt comes with a slather of Dukes and whole grain mustard, with the Kettle Cooked Turkey sandwich layered under crispy romaine and apple berry jam. Both come cloaked beneath aged cheddar on a fresh brioche bun.

Diners can choose one of four select sides to accompany handhelds including Smoked Gouda Grits or a colorful Cucumber-Tomato Salad. But if you're ordering either of the burgers than the Truffle Fries are and apt complement. We're talking blanched potatoes fried to a crisp, after which they are tossed in a blend of grated parmesan cheese, truffle oil and salt. Arouse your taste buds!

Aside from a Charleston standard, two of the desserts are a delightful and appetizing mystery. MOMO's Creme Brulee is off the charts awesome and available year round. However, the Cake of the Day and the Seasonal Handpie can change daily, weekly, or during warm and cool weather. 

I know you're scratching your head 'what in the world is handpie?'. We can thank our friends across the pond, yes the British came up with handpie. It's basically a circular piece of biscuit-style dough stuffed with sweet or savory filling before being folded, then crimped before being baked or fried. I sampled the Blueberry Cheesecake and it was oozing with gooey scrumptiousness. I've heard the Apple Cinnamon is equaling as exhilarating.

Speaking of intoxicating, MOMO offer up a dozen signature cocktails including an Espresso Martini (triple shot vodka, Kahlua, Six & Twenty Carolina cream), an Oyster Shooter served with an oyster half-shell, and three additional alcohol infused drinks bearing their name. 

The MOMO Spritz laced with Nippitati Gin, peach puree, Elderflower, Prosecco, and mint is a cool and refreshing drink you can nurse throughout lunch or dinner. The the other hand the Applejack Pie teeming with Butter-Washed Tito's Vodka, gingerbread syrup, apple juice, lemon, apple pie spice is perfectly paired for autumn consumption. 

Justin and Iryna didn't just create an innovative menu with great tasting food. The couple created a dining experience embracing old school hospitality. Should you opt to enjoy your meal alfresco (outdoors) they provide heaters, blankets, and even petite tabletop fans that keep pesky insects away. Maybe it's a little cool but you want to dine under the moonlight, MOMO light the occasional fire pit as needed. 

It's the small things that make the slightest difference. MOMO is miles away from the hustle and bustle. You're surrounded by peace and tranquility, with a scenic view of the Cooper River. The overall ambiance and decor are inviting. If I were judging the food on presentation alone I'd give the a perfect 10.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention they have a raw bar and offer Sunday brunch where guests can enjoy a Bloody Mary alongside Shrimp Cocktail, Steak n' Eggs, BBQ Hash, and Smoked Salmon on sourdough toast. You're damn straight you can sip a mimosa with French Toast or Oyster Po'Boy. Brunch outside of downtown Charleston is hard to find, and although a few restaurants in the north area serve it, none of them provide the same setting as MOMO. 

I've been reviewing restaurants for over 25 years in Charleston. I'm far from some snobbish, hoity-toity food & beverage connoisseur. I love everyday comfort foods, and dining on occasion at more luxurious eateries. With prices ranging from $10-$30, MOMO is somewhere between the two, yet easily the most high class come as you are dining establishment in North Charleston. Where your Sunday best or dress casual. At MOMO you're always welcome.

If you're wondering how the Moore's came up with the name, it's rather inspirational. It'd be easy to think they took the first couple letters from their last name and doubled it since they are husband and wife. That alone would be sweet, but according to Iryna the meaning runs deeper. Several years back, Justin's mother suggested he open a food truck business. Since he was a trained executive chef with experience in several Charleston area restaurants he initially dismissed the thought.

However, he eventually warmed up to the idea, and wanted to incorporate his love for Georgia (the peach state) and his grandfather's peach farm in Lexington SC, using the peach name or image to brand his food truck. Great in theory, but not so in reality for a full service food truck. Ironically they searched and found out the Japanese term for peach is pronounced Momo. A light went off and since the first three letters of Momo are 'mom', Justin received divine revelation.

My creative mind has its own interpretation, with that being Moore's Outstanding Mouthwatering Originals.

If you're heading out to dinner and especially on the weekend, it's best to make reservations. MOMO can accommodate larger parties, so if you're celebrating an anniversary, wedding party, or birthday than call them to make arrangements. Open for lunch and dinner Tues-Thur 11-9pm, Fri & Sat 11-10pm, and Sunday for brunch 10-3pm. 

A MOMO side note:

Readers in Goose Creek, especially golfers who play the course at Crowfield Golf Club may be fully aware there is a transformation taking place. The Moore's took over the restaurant and snack bar inside the club earlier this summer. While they are still serving up handheld foods to players seeking a quick grab n' go bite, the Moore's have been doing renovations, making the club house eatery into a second MOMO offering the same menu they provide at Riverfront Park. 

This is exciting news, since much like North Charleston the city of Goose Creek is filled with fast food restaurants and a few sports bars. Now with MOMO Crowfield up and running, folks living near the College Park area of Goose Creek including Ladson, as well as parts of Summerville and Moncks Corner can enjoy the same menu served at Riverfront while not venturing far from home, with both locations providing less distractions.

For more incredible culinary experiences in Charleston, check out our guide to the city's best dining destinations. From fresh seafood to Southern classics, there’s something for every palate! View more Charleston dining options here.

Several photos care of MOMO and Charleston Food Chick