Riccio Family Serving Up NY Style Sandwiches & Italian Specialties to Downtown Summerville

Jeff Walker,  Entertainment Writer / Food & Beverage Review

While there are a select few pizzerias throughout the tri-county that merit the real NY style pizza title, when it comes to authentic Italian delis in the low country, that number is near non-existent. However, back in April of this year Richard 'Rick' and Phyliss Riccio opened without question the best northeastern style deli ever to come to the greater Charleston.

Located nicely in the former Eva's Restaurant at 129 S Main St, Summerville, Nonna's Italian Deli & Specialties thrives on five Fs, namely 'faith, family, and freakin' fantastic food'. Nonna's which is Italian for grandmother is a combination deli, bakery, and Italian marketplace. Open 10-6pm Tues - Sat Nonna's isn't a sit down restaurant, rather it's an unpretentious Italian deli serving up quality fresh made sandwiches and sweet treats, alongside homemade sauces and pasta. 

In less than five months since opening their doors, Nonna's has gained a solid reputation, with lines often extending outside onto the sidewalk waiting to order at the counter. And we're not talking just Summerville. The word is out, Nonna's is the real deal. Customers are coming from all over the low country, including James Island, Mt. Pleasant, and West Ashley.

The Riccio's born and raised in New Jersey found Summerville last year when they were looking to relocate from the Garden State. After building a house near the Cane Bay area including a suite for his 83 year old mother Angela, Rick who had already opted he wasn't going to retire at 59, decided he and Phyliss wanted to open a real northern style deli, simply because it didn't exist in Summerville or quite frankly anywhere in Charleston.

Food has been a part of Rick's life for over 50 years. His great grandfather immigrated from the Naples a century ago, and not long after had is own bakery in Jersey City. As is often the case during the rise of greatest generation (pre-World War II) Rick's family members branched out opening well-received delis, butcher shops, bakeries, and restaurants across New Jersey and New York.

While Rick fell in love with cooking and food preparation at the the tender age of eight, he followed his father's footsteps on a career path in academia, reaching the level as vice president at a university in NYC. When COVID-19 hit, Rick sensed it was time to step away and and return to his true roots, opening a small cafe that grew into a pizzeria and deli. Rather an odd choice during a worldwide pandemic, but when you know it's right, it's right!

Initially considering downsizing in New Jersey, Rick and Phyliss chose to move to greener pastures and warmer weather. Thankfully for two reasons, the good Lord directed their path to the welcoming town of Summerville SC.

First off, with all the northerners, i.e, those who have moved to the low country from NY, NJ, PA, and Connecticut, having an authentic deli like Nonna's is a welcome reminder of all the awesome food they enjoyed growing up. On the flip side of the coin, for southerners (Charleston & SC natives) Nonna's provides an opportunity for food lovers to not only experience what a real Italian sandwich looks and smells like, but more importantly, tastes like.

I can't stress this enough. Authenticity is the key at Nonna's. Rick didn't set up shop in Summerville and all of a sudden decide to cut back on the quality of products he's always used to save time or money. Rather, Rick believes if he wouldn't eat or take home what he serves up at Nonna's, then why would he offer it to his customers. 

Let's get to the core of Nonna's. Almost all the meats the Riccio's use to create their sandwiches come from Thumann's out of Carlstadt NJ. A fourth generation family owned meat processing company established in 1949, Thumann's is recognized for their 'Deli Best' brand, delivering superior high quality lean cuts of meat, making them the industry standard.

Two things really set a true Italian sandwich apart. First the quality of the deli meats (see above), and secondly the roll. When you pair premium meats with superior rolls, you craft an incomparable sandwich. The Riccio's get all their baked goods from family owned bakeries out of NY and NJ including semolina rolls, with the lone exception being the Amoroso, used in creating signature cheesesteaks. 

I had the pleasure of enjoying The Italian sandwich which is the benchmark for an Italian deli. It is beyond amazing. Served on a 10' semolina roll, The Italian comes jammed packed with thin sliced ham, Genoa salami, prosciutto (Italian ham), and hot capicola (Italian cured pork deli meat). It's further layered with tomato, lettuce, and red onion, before being accented with salt, pepper, olive oil, and red wine vinegar. You can have it your way, but I strongly suggest having it Nonna's way.

When if say the sandwich was jammed packed, I'm talking, while the roll is all of 10' in length, it's probably about 6' high when you unwrap it, overflowing with tons and tons of thinly sliced premium meats. Rick doesn't even weigh the meat. He just know when he's slicing and stacking how much there needs to be on the roll. The Italian sandwich easily satisfies a ravenous appetite, feeds two people amply, or three light eaters. 

I was equally blessed to chow down on Nonna's Cheesesteak sandwich, made to perfection with cooper cheese, a bold and creamy white cheese ideal for melting. For more than two decades the former Philly's in Oakbrook of Summerville was the place to get a cheesesteak. The owner who was raised outside of Philadelphia won 'best cheesesteak' more times than I can count. Sadly, after his death during COVID, the eatery closed. However, I can say with certainty, Nonna's has taken the mantle and no doubt will be the destination of choice for real cheesesteak lovers.

If you want a variation on the beloved 'city of brotherly love' sandwich, then order Nonna's Italian Cheesesteak which substitutes mozzarella in place of cooper cheese before being laced with homemade marinara. Mangia! 

Before leaving I was doubly blessed to carry home a Vanilla Eclair and a Dark Side of the Moon, aka a fudge cake filled with chocolate ganache and infused with coffee liqueur. Just a couple of nearly two dozen sweet treats that include traditional tiramisu, cannolis, and seven (count 'em), seven flavors of NY style cheesecake. Only one word to describe the desserts. 'Heavenly'!

Hot and cold sandwiches, homemade soups, salads, and desserts, alongside prepared entrees that include chicken marsala, spaghetti & meatballs, as well as shrimp and or veal parmigiana. Sides include garlic bread, beer battered onion rings, golden brown deep fried Tailgating Wings, and mozzarella sticks.

If you're the adventurous type then opt for one of two Italian and NJ staples. Arancini is an old country favorite made from Arborio (medium-grain Italian rice) blended with mozzarella, onions, and romano, then rolled into a seasoned rice ball and deep fried. Let's just say it's the Italian version of a hush-puppy.

Transplants will be delighted to know that Nonna's serves up Jersey Disco Fries. But you don't have to be from the Garden state to enjoy these hand cut fries drenched in brown gravy and topped with mozzarella. The Italian Hot Dog has been a Jersey specialty since the legendary Jimmy Buff concocted the sandwich in Newark (circa 1932). We're talking a oversized deep fried dog nestled in an Italian roll smothered in bell peppers, onions, and potatoes. Both have become legendary late night Jersey diner originals. Don't knock them until you try them, because they are 'yummy in the tummy'! 

While Nonna's provides customers Italian marketplace items, awesome desserts, and incredible prepared pasta dishes, sandwiches are where they shine. All of their 19 listed sandwiches reflect either their NY or NJ heritage, with a select few saluting family members like The Nicole and The Angela built with chicken, fresh mozzarella, and broccoli rabe. The Dean Martin is a fried chicken cutlet blanketed under mozzarella and vodka sauce. Love roast beef piled high on a sandwich, then I suggest The Hoboken. 

A dozen sumptuous entrees all between $17-$22. When the weather gets a tad cooler and you're craving something hot, maybe order Nonna's thick and hearty Beef Brisket Chili. They carry over three dozen varieties of beverages including Coke and Boylan products as well as Italian Coca-Cola, Manhattan Special Espresso Soda, green teas, and Pellegrino.

Not only does Nonna's celebrate real deli foods and Italian staples, the Riccio's pay homage to their family with vintage black & white photos on the back wall, further saluting the heroic men and women who serve as first responders. Check out the precinct badges on the back wall as well. Serving up the best damn Italian food possible is not enough, the Riccio's are connecting with the community on a truly personal level.

Rick admits you can't keep a good woman down, which is why his 83 year old mother works at Nonna's. Hey, she a grandmother and the place is basically named in her honor, so why not come in two or three days a week, roll some Arancini or meat balls, and enjoy life!  In Italiana it's godersi la vita. 

There is a huge difference between the run of the mill franchised sandwich shops and an authentic Italian deli. If you're getting a sub sandwich for $6, than you're getting a $6 sub par sub sandwich. Average bread, and the little meats you're getting on it are no doubt second rate and full of fillers.

Honestly for the money you'll spend at Nonna's you're receiving a much better value. At $17 the cheesesteak or The Italian feeds three, and you're getting an oversized sandwich teeming with the best quality ingredients. Nonna's offers up a half pound Bacon Cheeseburger made with wagyu beef. You can walk out with an authentic Grilled Reuben complete with pastrami or corned beef and all the legendary fixings for $13.

I've said this before and it's worth repeating. Charleston is a food town, and while the food & beverage community continues to grow with diverse options, the Holy City was established on BBQ, shrimp & grits, soul food, and sweet tea.

As immigrants a century ago made their way to America, like Rick's grandparents did coming through Ellis Island, cities and communities from Philly to Boston grew with pocketed food & beverage neighborhoods. They opened Jewish and Italian delis, German bakeries, pizzerias, and ristorantes offering up what northerners would accept as everyday comfort foods such as bagels, breakfast pastries, pizza, pasta, and sandwiches.

If you're a true blue carnivore, crave filling sandwiches, premium cheeses that ooze over premium meats, love great pasta, home-made soups, and desserts then make Nonna's your new destination. Aside from getting veggies from Coastal Produce in Summerville, 80 percent of their products come from New York, New Jersey, and Italy, with many of the cheeses, olives, and oils imported from various European countries.

Coming full circle Rick and Phyliss are bringing three generations of their family's food and beverage heritage to small town Summerville. Rick's blood runs Italian with Phyliss having a Polish background. Together this husband and wife team know food. Rick proudly declares Nonna's Italian Deli & Specialties is 'often imitated but never duplicated'. This writer has tasted and I vehemently agree. Even if you have to wait 15 or 20 minutes to place your order, your taste-buds and your belly will thank you!

It occurs to me that you can't spell delicacy without 'deli'. Check any dictionary and the term for delicacy related to food is something pleasing to eat that is considered rare or luxurious. Just saying, that sounds a lot like Nonna's Italian Deli to me. Try them and I'm certain you'll agree. Life is short, eat well!

Their shop at 129 S. Main is bringing the best of both culinary worlds to the heart of downtown Summerville. Want physical landmarks to make your trip easier. They are two doors down from the Summerville Theatre and directly across from Hutchinson Square.

While their website is under construction you can find their menu and order ahead at https://nonnasdeli.square.site/?location_id=L368S6HY79T3H&fulfillment=PICKUP